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Sodium polyglutamate — modern cosmetic ingredient

Humectant · 한국 전통 뷰티 성분 백과사전

폴리글루탐산polligeullutamsan

Sodium Polyglutamate (Polyglutamic Acid)

A fermentation-derived polypeptide humectant that holds water on the surface in a light film, with promising rather than established evidence for its cosmetic role.

PromisingExperimental

Scientific identification

How to read this identification: Sodium polyglutamate is a high-molecular-weight polypeptide produced by fermentation, and it is not the same material as the food additive monosodium glutamate or as the amino acid glutamic acid: the polymer holds water in a film, while the small molecules do not behave that way. A label does not state the molecular weight, which decides whether a product feels light or slightly tacky.

INCI name: Sodium Polyglutamate

Modern cosmetic ingredient

This classification records the context the ingredient is documented in, not where it comes from: a Korean heritage ingredient is one with documented use in Korean practice, while a modern cosmetic ingredient carries no heritage claim. Neither label states that the ingredient originated in Korea.

Skin concerns this profile is offered for

Dryness and dehydrationRough texture and poresDull-looking skin

A browsing aid and a statement of cosmetic intent only: it diagnoses nothing and promises no result.

Modern cosmetic context

Sodium polyglutamate is a modern cosmetic ingredient and carries no Korean heritage claim. It is included because it has become a familiar humectant in contemporary Korean skincare, where it appears in essences, ampoules, serums and masks, often in a hydrating line alongside hyaluronic acid. Its place is modern formulation, and nothing on this profile presents it as a traditional ingredient.

References

  • Cosmetic science literature on polyglutamic acid and its salt as a humectant and film-former · Published cosmetic science literature
  • Literature on the fermentation production and molecular weight of polyglutamate polymers · Published biopolymer literature

Modern Cosmetic Science

Modern cosmetic applications

  • Used in hydrating essences, ampoules, serums, creams and masks, often with other humectants
  • Chosen for a smooth, slightly film-forming feel on the surface, and usually layered under an emollient so the water it holds is not lost to dry air

Sodium polyglutamate is a large polypeptide that binds a great deal of water and forms a light film on the surface, which is well described in cosmetic science. Its measured effect on skin hydration has been reported in small studies, but the evidence base is much thinner than for glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which is why the humectant and moisturising positions are rated promising rather than established. No study establishes a measured improvement in skin smoothness, so the texture claim is rated experimental.

Benefits & Limitations

Evidence by claim

Every rating applies to ONE claimed benefit. An ingredient is never given a single overall effectiveness score.

  • Humectant water-binding in a cosmetic formulation

    PromisingRating approved by an authorized reviewer

    Rated promising: preliminary or composition-level evidence exists for this specific claim, and the rating does not extend beyond it. Claim: Humectant water-binding in a cosmetic formulation

  • Moisturizing support in a formulated product

    PromisingRating approved by an authorized reviewer

    Rated promising: preliminary or composition-level evidence exists for this specific claim, and the rating does not extend beyond it. Claim: Moisturizing support in a formulated product

  • A smoother-feeling skin surface in a cosmetic formulation

    ExperimentalRating approved by an authorized reviewer

    Rated experimental: evidence for this claim is insufficient, so it is stated as a cosmetic focus or expectation only. Claim: A smoother-feeling skin surface in a cosmetic formulation

What is not claimed

No claim is made that sodium polyglutamate reduces wrinkles, increases collagen, changes the skin structure or produces a lasting improvement in skin texture. A film that holds water and feels smooth is a surface effect, and it lasts as long as the product is on the skin.

Safety & Allergies

  • Sodium polyglutamate is generally well tolerated and no cosmetic allergen is established for it
  • At a high concentration it can feel tacky, and a tacky film can pill under makeup or sunscreen; if a product feels sticky, use less of it rather than layering more

Proposed educational recipes, not clinically tested formulations. Nothing here is claimed to have been used in ancient Korea, to be clinically proven, dermatologist tested, or safe for every user.

Related Beauty Rituals

No related beauty ritual is recorded for this ingredient yet.

Professionally formulated products

No professionally formulated product is listed for this ingredient yet.

This is a modern cosmetic ingredient. No traditional or cultural association is recorded for it, and none is claimed.

All recipes

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